The noughties were a no-holds-barred for our brows, with many of us tragically reducing our archers to razor-thing tadpoles, thanks to our tweezers.
You would think we know better now, but with the Y2K redux upon us, – #Y2K has now racked up nearly five billion views on TikTok – the fated cycling of trends, and Bella Hadid leading the slender power-brow push, it’s time to revisit your brow shape with a fresh new perspective.
“It seems inevitable that, eventually, the natural brow is going to have to succumb to the tweezer again,” says Troy Surratt, a cosmetics artist. Surratt, a Kevyn Aucoin protégé, is well-versed in the art of pencil-thin brows.
After all, it was Aucoin who popularized them in the 1990s by painting the faces of the most famous supermodels of the time, including Kate Moss, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Linda Evangelista.
In the book Larger Than Life: The Kevyn Aucoin Story, designer and partner Isaac Mizrahi recalls, “there was a time that we decided together that everyone needed to look like Carole Lombard and have really skinny eyebrows. The next thing I knew, [Aucoin] was plucking everybody’s eyebrows.”
Kristie Streicher, an L.A. brow expert who has seen a lot of Gen Zers interested in “going thin,” believes there is a place for the spirit of Y2K-era beauty, within reason. “I love seeing this on runways and in editorials,” Streicher says, “but…it’s just not practical for everyday life.”
She goes on to say that a person’s natural brow shape is usually proportional to their facial features. “There are people who naturally have more of a defined and smaller brow, which is usually matched with smaller, more defined features,” she explains.
Kimiko Dani Vincent, the longstanding artist responsible for Sandra Oh’s arches, agrees. “There is a ‘best brow’ for your face structure, and that’s usually the brow you had before making any major modifications,” Vincent explains.
“I don’t think it’s a good idea to wander too far from one’s natural shape.” Vincent sees natural brow forms, including thinner brows, making a comeback “almost as a reaction to the big brow look that has been very strong for some time now,” she says.
She also points out that thin brows have been connected with many counter cultures throughout history, from the brassy flappers of the 1920s to various punk scenes. “With uncertainty about the future, we may be wistful for those playful and simpler-seeming days,” she says.
Jen Myles, an editorial makeup artist who frequently collaborates with Hadid, recognizes the appeal of the pencil-thin arch return. “I think everyone’s ready for a change, a more manicured, ultra-groomed style,” Myles says of the changeover after years of thick arches.
“Those who haven’t had their brows microbladed or spent the last decade growing them back may be ready to embrace the Y2K look.” Here are a few pro-approved ways for exploring the Y2K trend with a 2022 perspective as we navigate the shifting brow landscape (and plenty of caution).
Take It Easy On Your Brows
Even a decade or two later, old habits die strong. If you’re tempted to go drastically thinner, put down the tweezers and consult a professional who can make little adjustments.
“After assisting thousands of women, including myself, in reclaiming their natural brows after the ’90s decimated them, and knowing personally the harm that over-tweezing and waxing can inflict, I would strongly advise against plucking out the hair to experiment,” adds Streicher.
Instead of eliminating the hair, she recommends sweeping the brows down and over or pulling the hairs together into a thin line to give them a thinner, more defined shape. If you want to experiment with your brows, she recommends dermaplaning or removing the hairs to avoid permanently harming the hair follicle.
“Think of this new brow trend, which was influenced by the early aughts, as a kinder, gentler version of its predecessor—more directed and uplifting, less severe or architectural,” Surratt says. “It should have a nuance and gentleness to it; that’s what keeps it contemporary.”
Fill In With Softness
According to Vincent, “a modern rendition of the Y2K brow style could incorporate less intensive product filling and decreasing the form by concentrating the fill well within the core brow.”
“By strategically applying your brow makeup, you may play with the intensity and placement of the arch without removing hair.” A fine pencil is essential for this, since it allows you to draw individual hairs and create a complete brow that looks natural.
She adds that it’s also versatile enough to provide exact definition if you’re trying out different looks, like as a thin brow.
Improve Your Taming Skills
“I usually prescribe a clear gel for style and hold, whether brows are penciled or bare,” Vincent explains. “It may lift and add fullness where hairs may have been drooping or can alternatively be utilized to produce a thinner brow.”
Myles’ go-to product for adding a dash of color for more definition as you set is Glossier’s Boy Brow in tidy strokes. “With just a few swipes, brows are put in place with the perfect amount of tinted color.”
Healthy Hair Growth is A Must (Yes!)
Whether your brows are thick or thin, a little TLC goes a long way toward keeping them healthy. Streicher recommends lightly brushing hairs in an upward motion with a soft spoolie brush for light brow exfoliation, which can remove dead skin cells that tend to gather under and around the hair shaft.
“This will also stimulate the brow skin area and boost blood flow,” she adds, “strengthening and promoting healthy hair growth.” After that, Streicher recommends massaging a nourishing oil, such as her Vitamin E–rich Afore Oil, or a supercharged serum, into the brow area on a daily basis.
“It can protect, hydrate, and keep hair growing strong and healthy.” Your future brows will thank you, no matter what shape they take.
